How Coach Went From Outdated and Tacky to Vintage and Chic
My prized possession growing up was a small Coach wallet. It was dark brown with the classic “C” monogram that was hugely popular in the 2000s. But by the time this wallet had entered the Coach outlets and was accessible to kids like me, the Coach Signature collection and its trademark “C” monogram had begun to fall out of the fashion trend cycle, marking these once iconic bags as tacky and cheap.
Throughout its history, Coach has been known as the pioneer of “accessible luxury,” meaning that while their bags were priced low enough to be accessible to most consumers, they were still made out of high-quality leather and sturdy metal hardware. However, the failure of the Signature collection to stay relevant and adapt to emerging fashion trends caused the once respected brand to be synonymous with poor quality and outdated styles.
The objective of Coach’s rebrand was simple — a new generation of consumers needed to be convinced that Coach still maintains a high level of craftsmanship while creating refined stylish bags. The brand was provided with the perfect opportunity to achieve this goal with the rising popularity of vintage and Y2K fashion trends among Gen Z and Millennials.
The rebrand of Coach began to first show signs of being successful in 2020 with the relaunch of the Swinger bag, which was based on a design that debuted in the 1980s and was a staple in the 1990s and early 2000s. This style was the first bag to be released from The Coach Originals, which describes itself as a “collection of archival-inspired bags that celebrates [the brand’s] legacy and authentic New York heritage.”
This campaign was targeting Gen Z and Millennials who are inspired by vintage styles and heavy consumers of second-hand fashion. Many consumers in this segment are against fast fashion and believe that vintage clothing and accessories are better quality than items produced now. The Coach Originals collection was an ideal way to speak to the interests and beliefs of the target audience and demonstrate the brand’s historic commitment to craftsmanship.
Another success for Coach was the reintroduction of the Tabby, a 1970s-inspired leather bag. While the bag did well when it was released in 2019, it reached a new level of fame with the release of the Pillow Tabby in 2021. This style quickly sold out and became massive on TikTok, with the hashtag #pillowtabby earning 46.3 million views since the bag’s launch. According to Bustle, the Pillow Tabby was so successful that it even started a new “puff trend” that was then imitated by luxury fashion houses, such as Loewe, Prada, and Bottega Veneta.
The brand has shown a clear understanding of what its targets are interested in and support, and it continues to capitalize on the success of the Pillow Tabby and Swinger bag through frequent social media campaigns and celebrity endorsements. With this, Coach has successfully repositioned itself as the accessible luxury brand they once were by emphasizing its historic commitment to quality through the reimaging of its classic vintage styles.
Ella Schroeder